Most water heater problems fall into a few main categories: no hot water, leaks, strange noises, discolored water, temperature changes, and frequent breakdowns. Many of these issues have simple causes like sediment buildup, faulty thermostats, or worn-out parts. Some problems you can fix yourself, while others need a professional plumber.
Water heaters work around the clock to provide hot water for showers, dishes, laundry, and cleaning. When problems occur, they can disrupt your daily routine and leave you without hot water when you need it most. Understanding common issues helps you respond quickly and avoid costly repairs.
Water heating is a major household cost driver, and some “water heater issues” show up first as higher utility bills; according to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE), water heating accounts for about 18% of a home’s energy use (often one of the largest energy expenses).
Catching water heater problems early saves you money and prevents bigger issues down the road. This guide walks you through the most common problems, what causes them, and how to address them. You'll also learn preventative steps to keep your water heater running smoothly for years.
Here’s what you’ll find below:
Keep reading to knowhow to troubleshoot common water heater problems by identifying the most likely causes and knowing when professional water heater repair is the safer option.
Water heater issues can disrupt your daily routine and leave you without hot water when you need it most. Understanding the most common problems helps you troubleshoot effectively and decide when to call a professional.
No hot water is often the first sign something is wrong. For electric heaters, check your circuit breaker to see if it tripped. For gas heaters, make sure the pilot light is lit. If these simple fixes don't work, your heating element or thermostat may need replacement.
Leaking water around your tank requires immediate attention. Check the temperature and pressure relief valve first, as it may need replacing. Leaks from the tank itself usually mean you need a new water heater.
Rusty or discolored water coming from your taps suggests corrosion inside the tank. This often means the anode rod has worn out and needs replacement. If rust appears on the outside of your tank, you may need a new unit soon.
Strange noises like popping or rumbling indicate sediment buildup at the bottom of your tank. Flushing your water heater removes this sediment and improves efficiency.
Water that's too hot or too cold points to thermostat problems. Check your temperature setting and adjust it to around 120 degrees. If that doesn't help, your thermostat may be faulty.
Temperature-related hot water problems also carry burn risk if settings are raised too high; according to the U.S. CDC, if you set a water heater above 120°F, you should use thermostatic mixing valves at the tap to help avoid burns.
Regular water heater troubleshooting catches small problems before they become expensive repairs. Some issues you can fix yourself, while others need a licensed plumber's expertise.
A water heater that fails to produce hot water or doesn't provide enough can disrupt your daily routine. The three main culprits behind hot water problems are broken heating elements, faulty thermostats, and sediment accumulation in the tank.
Electric water heaters rely on one or two heating elements to warm the water in your tank. When the upper element fails, you'll get no hot water at all. If the lower element breaks, you'll have some hot water but it runs out quickly.
You can test heating elements with a multimeter to check if they're working properly. A reading outside the normal range of 10-30 ohms means the element needs replacement.
Signs of a broken heating element:
Replacing a heating element costs between $20-50 for the part. The job requires turning off power at the breaker, draining some water from the tank, and removing the access panel.
Your water heater's thermostat controls when the heating elements turn on and off. A broken thermostat won't signal the elements to heat water, even if the elements work fine. Electric water heaters have two thermostats, while gas models typically have one.
The upper thermostat should be set between 120-140°F for most homes. If the thermostat setting is too low, your water won't get hot enough. If it's broken, it might not activate the heating elements at the right temperature.
You can adjust the thermostat by removing the access panel and using a screwdriver to change the setting. Wait a few hours and test your water temperature. If adjusting doesn't help, the thermostat needs replacement.
Minerals from your water supply settle at the bottom of your tank over time. This layer of sediment acts as a barrier between the heating element and the water. Your heater uses more energy but produces less hot water.
If sediment buildup keeps returning, local water chemistry may be contributing, so it helps to confirm what’s in your supply; per the South Carolina Department of Environmental Services (SCDES), public water systems must provide customers a Consumer Confidence Report (CCR) each year (due by July 1) that summarizes water quality information you can review for minerals and other factors tied to scaling.
Hard water areas see faster sediment accumulation. A tank with heavy buildup makes rumbling or popping sounds when heating. The sediment reduces your tank's effective capacity, so you run out of hot water sooner.
Flushing your tank once or twice a year prevents serious buildup. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve and empty several gallons until the water runs clear. For tanks with severe accumulation, you may need a professional to flush it properly or consider replacement if the buildup is too extensive.
Water pooling around your water heater can signal serious issues like tank corrosion, valve problems, or loose connections. Sometimes the water isn't actually from a leak but from condensation on the tank's exterior.
A corroded tank is one of the most serious problems you can face with a leaking water heater. Over time, minerals and sediment build up inside your tank and cause the metal to rust from the inside out.
Once rust eats through the tank walls, water starts leaking out. You cannot repair a corroded tank. The entire water heater needs replacement.
Corrosion also affects the pipes and connections attached to your water heater. The inlet and outlet pipes can rust where they connect to the tank. You might see water dripping from these connection points or notice rust-colored stains around the fittings.
Check your tank for rust spots, especially near the bottom where sediment collects. If you catch corrosion early on the pipes, you may be able to replace just the affected connections instead of the whole unit.
The temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P valve) releases excess pressure from your water heater to prevent dangerous buildup. This valve sits on the top or side of your tank with a discharge pipe running down toward the floor.
A faulty T&P valve can leak water when it fails to seal properly. You might see water dripping from the valve itself or running down the discharge pipe. Sometimes the valve opens when pressure gets too high, which is normal, but it should close again once pressure drops.
Test your valve by lifting the lever briefly. Water should flow out and stop when you release it. If water keeps dripping after the test, the valve needs replacement. These valves cost between $20 and $50 and are relatively easy to replace.
Water heater connections naturally loosen over time due to temperature changes and vibration. The cold water inlet pipe, hot water outlet pipe, and drain valve all have threaded connections that can develop leaks.
Check all visible pipes and fittings for moisture or water droplets. Run your hand along the connections to feel for dampness. Sometimes a loose connection only leaks slightly and the water evaporates before it reaches the floor.
You can often fix these leaks by tightening the connections with a wrench. Turn off the water supply first, then carefully tighten each fitting. Don't overtighten, as this can crack the fittings or damage the threads.
The drain valve at the bottom of your tank is another common spot for leaks. If tightening doesn't work, you may need to replace the valve or add plumber's tape to the threads.
Your water heater might make several types of sounds that point to specific problems. Sediment buildup and high water pressure are two main causes that need different fixes.
Minerals in your water settle at the bottom of the tank over time. This sediment layer hardens and traps water underneath it. When your heater turns on, the trapped water boils and creates steam bubbles that pop through the sediment layer.
The popping or rumbling sound happens when these bubbles burst. This noise gets louder as more sediment builds up in your tank.
You can fix this problem by draining and flushing your water heater. Turn off the power or gas to your unit first. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Let the water drain completely until it runs clear.
Flushing your tank once a year stops sediment from building up. This simple maintenance step keeps your heater running quietly and helps it last longer.
High water pressure forces water through your pipes and valves too quickly. This creates whistling sounds as water rushes through narrow openings. You might also hear loud banging when you turn off a faucet quickly.
Your home's water pressure should stay between 40 and 80 psi. Anything above 80 psi puts stress on your water heater and plumbing system.
Check your water pressure with a gauge that screws onto an outdoor faucet. If the pressure reads too high, install a pressure-reducing valve on your main water line. You can also adjust an existing pressure regulator by turning the adjustment screw.
Banging noises might also come from loose heating elements or mounting straps. Turn off your water heater and tighten any loose parts you find during inspection.
Discolored or foul-smelling hot water usually signals internal tank problems or bacterial contamination. These issues stem from corrosion, stagnant water conditions, or chemical reactions within your water heater.
Brown, red, or rusty-colored water from your hot water tap indicates corrosion inside the tank. This happens when the protective lining breaks down or when the anode rod deteriorates beyond its useful life.
The anode rod is a metal component that attracts corrosive elements to protect the tank. Once this rod wears out, rust forms on the tank walls. You'll notice the discoloration most when you first turn on the hot water.
Signs of tank corrosion:
Replacing the anode rod every 3-5 years prevents most corrosion issues. If the tank itself has started rusting, you'll likely need a new water heater since internal tank damage can't be repaired.
Water that sits unused in your tank creates conditions for bacteria to multiply. This growth produces a musty or moldy smell from your hot water taps. The problem gets worse if you keep your water temperature below 120°F or leave the heater off for extended periods.
Bacteria thrives in warm, stagnant environments. Your water heater becomes an ideal breeding ground when water sits idle for days or weeks.
To eliminate bacterial growth, raise your water temperature to 140°F for several hours. This kills most bacteria without creating a scalding risk at your taps. Flush your tank completely after this treatment.
Regular hot water usage prevents bacteria from establishing colonies. If you go on vacation, consider draining the tank or having someone run the hot water periodically.
A rotten egg smell from your hot water results from hydrogen sulfide gas production. This occurs when sulfate-reducing bacteria react with the magnesium or aluminum anode rod in your tank.
The chemical reaction between sulfates in your water supply and the anode rod creates hydrogen sulfide gas. This gas dissolves into the water and produces the characteristic sulfur smell. Well water systems experience this problem more frequently than municipal water supplies.
You can fix sulfur odors by replacing the standard anode rod with a powered anode rod. A powered rod uses electrical current instead of sacrificial metal. Alternatively, chlorinate your tank by adding hydrogen peroxide or chlorine bleach to kill the bacteria.
Metallic tastes or smells point to high concentrations of iron, copper, or zinc in your water. These metals leach from pipes, the tank, or the anode rod itself.
Your water heater's thermostat and sediment levels directly control whether you get consistent hot water. When these components fail or become compromised, you'll notice sudden temperature changes during showers or while running hot water at the sink.
The thermostat controls your water heater's temperature by turning the heating elements on and off. When it malfunctions, you'll experience water that's too hot one moment and lukewarm the next.
Start by checking if your thermostat is set to the right temperature. The recommended setting is 120°F, which prevents scalding and reduces energy costs. If the setting looks correct but problems continue, the thermostat itself may be faulty.
Electric water heaters have two thermostats that need to work together. If the upper thermostat fails, you'll get small amounts of hot water that runs out quickly. A broken lower thermostat causes less noticeable temperature changes but still affects overall heating.
You can test your thermostat with a multimeter to check if it's functioning properly. However, if you're not comfortable working with electrical components, call a professional. A faulty thermostat needs replacement, which typically costs less than buying a new water heater.
Minerals from hard water settle at the bottom of your tank over time. This sediment layer creates a barrier between the heating element and the water, making it harder to heat water evenly.
You'll notice the effects most during high-demand times when your family uses more hot water. The heating element struggles to warm water through the sediment, causing temperature drops.
Flush your water heater tank annually to remove sediment. Turn off the power or gas, connect a garden hose to the drain valve, and let water run until it's clear. This simple maintenance task takes about 30 minutes and significantly improves heating performance.
If you haven't flushed your tank in years, sediment may have hardened. You might need a professional to clean the tank thoroughly or assess whether the buildup has damaged the heating elements.
Water heaters break down when their parts wear out from years of use or when they don't get the care they need. Most breakdowns can be prevented with attention to these two key factors.
Water heater parts wear out over time from constant exposure to heat and water. The heating elements in electric models typically last 8-10 years before they fail. Gas burners can develop cracks or clogs that prevent proper heating.
The anode rod protects your tank from rust by attracting corrosive elements in the water. This rod usually needs replacement every 3-5 years. When it wears down completely, rust forms inside the tank and causes leaks.
Thermostats lose accuracy as they age. Your water might run too hot or too cold when the thermostat can't read temperatures correctly anymore.
The tank itself develops weak spots after years of holding heated water under pressure. Most tanks last 10-15 years before the metal breaks down enough to cause leaks.
Skipping regular maintenance leads to problems that could have been avoided. Sediment builds up at the bottom of your tank when you don't flush it annually. This sediment makes your heater work harder and can damage the heating element or tank bottom.
You should test the pressure relief valve every year to make sure it works. A stuck valve can't release excess pressure, which creates dangerous conditions and potential tank failure.
Ignoring small leaks around connections or valves leads to bigger problems. These leaks often start small but grow worse when left alone. Water damage to nearby floors and walls adds to your repair costs.
Regular inspections catch worn parts before they fail completely. Replacing a $20 anode rod is much cheaper than replacing a rusted-out tank that costs over $1,000.
Taking care of your water heater through regular maintenance can stop most problems before they start. Simple tasks like flushing the tank, checking key parts, and getting yearly inspections help your water heater last longer and work better.
Sediment builds up at the bottom of your water heater tank over time. This happens when minerals from hard water settle and harden. The buildup makes your water heater work harder and can cause it to fail early.
You should flush your water heater at least once a year. Turn off the power or gas first. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Let the water drain into a bucket or outside until it runs clear.
If you have hard water, you may need to flush your tank twice a year. The process takes about 30 minutes and can add years to your water heater's life. You'll also notice better heating performance and lower energy bills after removing the sediment.
The anode rod is a metal stick inside your water heater that protects the tank from rust. It attracts corrosive elements in the water and slowly dissolves instead of letting your tank rust. Most people don't know this part exists, but it's critical for preventing leaks.
Check your anode rod every two to three years. Turn off the water heater and remove the rod using a socket wrench. Replace it if more than six inches of the core wire is exposed or if it's less than half an inch thick.
A new anode rod costs between $20 and $50. Replacing it is much cheaper than buying a new water heater. This simple step can extend your tank's life by several years.
A licensed plumber should inspect your water heater once a year. They check parts you can't easily access and spot problems you might miss. These inspections catch issues early before they become expensive repairs.
During an inspection, the plumber tests the temperature and pressure relief valve. They check for leaks, examine the burner or heating elements, and make sure all connections are tight. They also verify that your water temperature is set correctly at 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
Professional inspections typically cost $80 to $150. Many plumbing companies offer maintenance plans that include annual checkups. This small investment helps you avoid emergency repairs that can cost thousands of dollars.
Dr. Rooter Lexington brings over two decades of plumbing expertise to homeowners and businesses throughout the region. Their team handles everything from emergency water heater repairs to full system replacements with transparent pricing and local knowledge.
Dr. Rooter has served the Lexington and Midlands region for over 23 years. Their plumbers hold proper licenses and receive ongoing training to handle complex water heater problems that other companies often avoid.
The team understands local water conditions and how they affect your water heater's performance. This experience helps them diagnose problems faster and recommend solutions that work for your specific situation.
You get technicians who specialize in jobs that challenge other plumbing companies. They work on both traditional tank water heaters and modern tankless systems. Their long-standing presence in the community means they have built a reputation on quality work and customer satisfaction.
Dr. Rooter keeps common water heater parts in stock so they can complete most repairs during the first visit. You don't have to wait days for parts to arrive when your water heater breaks down.
The company offers both residential and commercial plumbing services. They handle routine maintenance, emergency repairs, and complete system installations. Whether you need a simple fix or a full replacement, their team responds promptly to get your hot water running again.
They install various types of water heating systems including tank models, tankless units, and hot water dispensers. This flexibility lets you choose the system that best fits your home's needs and your budget.
Dr. Rooter provides free estimates before starting any work. They explain your options clearly and help you decide whether water heater repair or replacement makes the most sense for your situation.
The company operates as a family and veteran-owned local business. When you hire them, you support your local economy while getting reliable plumbing services.
Their technicians give you straightforward information about what your water heater needs. They don't pressure you into unnecessary services or expensive upgrades. You receive honest recommendations based on your water heater's condition and your household's requirements.
Water heater problems don't have to turn into expensive emergencies. You can handle many common issues yourself with basic tools and a little know-how.
Regular maintenance makes a big difference in preventing problems before they start. Simple tasks like draining sediment, checking the pressure relief valve, and inspecting the anode rod can extend your water heater's life by years.
You should call a professional for gas line issues, major leaks, or problems with internal components. Some repairs require specialized tools and expertise that aren't safe for DIY work.
Keep an eye on your water heater's age. Most tank water heaters last 8 to 12 years. If yours is older and having frequent problems, replacement might be more cost-effective than constant repairs.
Your hot water system works hard every day. By understanding common problems and fixing them quickly, you'll avoid cold showers and surprise breakdowns. Simple attention to your water heater saves money and keeps your household running smoothly.
Request an on-site diagnosis from Dr. Rooter Lexington for water heater issues so a licensed plumber can pinpoint the failure (heating elements/thermostat, T&P valve, sediment buildup, or a leaking water heater) and complete the correct water heater repair before the problem escalates.
